How to Intarsia-Knit a Crabby Sweater

Learn to knit this cozy and easy-to-wear pullover that combines stranded and intarsia techniques with simple stripes and fun rolled edges. A buttoned shoulder opening makes the neckline easy for wee noggins to get through.

• Size: Finished chest measurement: 25-1⁄2 (27-1⁄2, 29)", to fit a child
• Yarn: Sportweight yarn (shown: Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Sport, 100% Peruvian Highland wool, 137 yd./50g)
  MC: Wonderland Heather, 3 (4, 5) skeins
  CC1: Claret Heather, 1 skein
  CC2: Avocado, 1 skein
  CC3: Marina, 1 skein
  CC4: Saffron, 1 skein
  CC5: Coal, 1 yd.
• Gauge: 26 sts and 36 rows = 4" in St st on larger needle
• Needles:
  Size 3 (3.25mm) 24" circular and DPNs, or size needed to achieve gauge
  Size 4 (3.5mm) 24" circular and DPNs, or size needed to achieve gauge
• Notions:
  Stitch marker
  Stitch holders
  Tapestry needle
  Hand sewing needle and thread
  Three 1" buttons

Front:

Back and sleeves:

For full-size versions of the charts for this pattern, go to this knitting patterns page.

Begin by working the lower front edge:

1. Foll outline on chart corresponding to your size, with larger needle and CC1, CO 83 (89, 95) sts. Work back and forth in St st for 6 rows. With smaller needle, work 3 rows in k1, p1 rib.

Work the front body:

1. Change to larger needle and CC2 and work in St st for 3 rows, as shown on chart. Work waves, as shown on rows 13–24, stranding unused color loosely on WS.
2. Cont foll the chart outline corresponding to your size. Work even in MC for 23 (33, 41) rows.
3. Beg with Row 48 of chart, work intarsia motif as shown.
4. Weave in yarn tails around intarsia motif. Work duplicate st eyes in black, as indicated on chart.

Shape the neckline and shoulders:

1. As indicated on Row 105 (109, 113) of chart, work 30 (28, 26) sts. Work next 23 (33, 43) sts and place them on a holder, work to end of row — 30 (28, 26) sts each side.
2. Cont working on right shoulder only. Work dec as foll on the next 3 RS rows: K3, ssk, knit to end of row — 27 (25, 23) sts. Work even for 3 more rows. Place live shoulder sts on holder.
3. Beg with a WS row, reattach working yarn to left shoulder. Cont working according to chart, reversing neckline shaping.
4. Work even for 3 more rows. Next row (RS): Purl. Work 4 rows in St st. BO loosely. Weave in ends and block.

Work the lower back edge:

1. Foll outline on chart corresponding to your size, with larger needle and CC1, CO 83 (89, 95) sts. Work back and forth in St st for 6 rows. With smaller needle, work 3 rows in k1, p1 rib.

Work the back body:

1. With larger needle, change to CC2 and work in St st for 3 rows, as shown on chart. Work waves, as shown on Rows 13–24, stranding unused color loosely on WS.
2. Cont foll the chart outline corresponding to your size. Work even to Row 114 (118, 122) of chart.
3. On Row 115 (119, 123), work first 27 (25, 23) sts and place these sts on a holder for right shoulder. Work next 29 (39, 49) sts and place them on a holder for back neck. Work back and forth in k1, p1 rib for 8 rows on rem 27 (25, 23) sts to form under-placket. BO loosely in patt.
4. Weave in ends and block.

Make the sleeve:

1. Foll outline on chart corresponding to your size, with larger DPNs, CO 54 (60, 66) sts. PM and join for working in rnds. Work 6 rnds in St st. With smaller DPNs, work 3 rnds in k1, p1 rib.
2. Change to larger DPNs and cont working in patt as indicated on rows 10–24 of chart.
3. Beg with Row 25 of chart, inc 1 st at each end of every 5th rnd 11 times as shown on chart — 76 (82, 88) sts. Work even for 3 (12, 21) rnds after last inc. BO loosely.
4. Make a second sleeve to match.
5. Weave in ends and block.

Finishing:

1. With RS tog, join right shoulder using 3-needle BO.
2. Fold left front placket hem to WS and stitch in place invisibly by hand.
3. Beg at left placket edge, with smaller needle and CC2, pick up and knit 10 sts along left neck edge, work 23 (33, 43) center front sts from holder, pick up and knit 10 sts along right neck edge, work 29 (39, 49) back neck sts from holder, pick up and knit 10 sts along back left-shoulder under-placket. Work 2 rows in CC2 in St st. Change to CC1 and purl 1 WS row. Work 3 rows in k1, p1 rib. Change to larger needle and work 6 rows in St st. BO loosely.
4. Make button loops along edge of hemmed placket. Sew buttons to ribbed under-placket, under loops.
5. Sew sleeves in place, beg at shoulder seam on right and center of placket on left.
6. Sew side seams. Weave in any rem ends.
   

   Crabby sweater schematic.

Stranded Intarsia Knitting Method

‘Stranded intarsia’ method

1. Knit in the round until you’ve done the last row before the intarsia starts.
2. Start working the contrast colour, but: instead of using a separate strand of yarn every time you change from contrast colour to main colour, use only one strand per colour. When you’re not using the second colour, carry it around in the back every two or three stitches, as you would for stranded knitting.
   Note: Don’t pull your yarn too tight, it’ll take the stretch out of your work. Don’t leave it too loose either, or you’ll create holes in your work. To maintain a nice stretch, make sure that you can still spread your stitches on your needles as you would when working with one colour only. It may take some practice, but you’ll get there.
3. When you’ve reached the end of your row, cut the contrast colour yarn if you haven’t done so already. Make sure to leave a long enough tail to weave it in once you’re finished.
4. Continue knitting in the round, adding the contrast colour to each row when you need it, carrying it along the back of your work until you’ve reached the last stitch on that row.
5. Repeat steps 3 to 4 until the whole intarsia part is done.
6. Continue knitting in the round as you would normally do.

Source--  http://abfabulies.com/2011/07/how-to-knit-intarsia-in-round.html?lang=en

How to knit intarsia in the round

When you try to find information about knitting intarsia in the round on the internet, most of the time you’ll be told that it’s not possible. The big problem when you try to do it: your yarn ends up at the end of your row, while you need it to be at the beginning.
If you don’t like bending the knitting rules, you’ll have to learn how to live with it: knitting intarsia in the round cannot be done. If, on the other hand, you don’t mind a little experimenting, there are actually two methods to solve this problem:

• the yarn over method
• the ‘stranded intarsia’ method

Both methods are explained below.

Yarn over method

1. Knit in the round until you’ve done the last row before the intarsia starts.
2. Use your main and contrast colours as you would when knitting intarsia flat, until you get to the end of the row.
3. Turn your work, so the wrong side is facing you.
4. At the beginning of the row, do a yarn over.
5. Since you’re working on the wrong side of your work, purl the rest of the row as you would when knitting flat, but do not work the last stitch of the row yet.
6. Purl the last stitch of the row together with the yarn over you made in the beginning of the row, seaming both sides together while doing so. Pull tight enough.
7. Turn your work, so the right side is facing you again.
8. At the beginning of the work, do a yarn over.
9. Since you’re working on the right side of your work again, knit the rest of the row as you would when knitting intarsia flat, but do not work the last stitch of the row yet.
10. Knit the last stitch of the row together with the yarn over you made in the beginning of the row, by knitting through the back loop of these two stitches.
11. Repeat steps 3 to 10 until the whole intarsia part is done.
12. Continue knitting in the round as you would normally do.

Source-- http://abfabulies.com/2011/07/how-to-knit-intarsia-in-round.html?lang=en

Knitting Machines Are Perfect For Business And Hobby Knitting

If you are thinking of going into a knitting business, than the knitting machine would be your best choice. You will be able to produce quality items much more quickly with a machine than you would be able to with hand knitting.
Brother knitting machine part
I have always owned and used the Brother knitting machines. I had 3 or 4 machines at all times. But Brother quit making them so now you can only buy used ones. A used machine is not a bad choice though. I have bought two used machines online and have had no trouble with either one them.
But the machines I used were not computerized or electrical either. All the machines I owned and used for my business were punchard bulky or standard machines. The punchards were 24 stitches repeat and provided plenty of choices for designs.
The also had many choices of stitches yo use. There was the lace stitch, weave, and fairisle just to mention a few. I could do intarsia, multiple patterns or even isolate one if I wanted. I had so many choices I never saw a need to get the biggest, fanciest machine available on the market. All I needed was a bulky or standard and a punchard and I had all the business I could manage.
Bond knitting machine pattern
If you know your machine you can covert just about any other machines pattern to work on whatever machine you own. I do not know a lot about the Bond knitting machine but I do not believe it would hold up to the constant production a business would entail.
Kid knitting machine
I think the Ultimate Sweater machine is fine for the home knitter or for teaching the kids how to knit. But the production of knitting constantly needs a pretty sturdy machine.
If you do decide to buy a used machine, make sure it is clean with no oil build up or rust. If well maintained there is no reason for these machines not to last for many many years. There are not that many parts to break or cause problems, with the machines I use. You can still get needles and parts for the Brother machines. You will often see them sold under the Brother name or the Knit King Knitting machines, which are the same.
Maintenance is the keyword here. The fancier the machine, the more bells and whistles they have the more that can go wrong. Your machine choice will depend on what you plan to do. Are you going to be a designer? If you plan on creating one of kind items, than you may want all that the machines have to offer.
I needed a workhorse. Yes I designed but I designed for production of multiple items.. I never created the intricate, detailed items that take weeks to produce. Mine were fast and functional.
I could whip out a ski cap with a thick ribbed edging, a complete pattern that ran all around the entire hat and have it personalized with the requested name in three different colors in 15 minutes. I could knit about 30 hats a day, sold them for between $8.00 and $30.00 per hat. Not too bad for working at home and being available for my family.
I loved my work and always found it very fulfilling. You need to do your homework and decide what type of knitting business you want and buy your machine accordingly.

Linda Spangenburg draws on 35+ years from her knitting and crochet business experience, both as a teacher and craft business owner. She is the author behind Looney for Looms where you will find patterns for loom knitting. We hope you found the information here inspiring enough to try a craft homebased business? You can find more free information about knitting and crochet for profit at http://www.knitting-n-crochet.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Linda_Spangenburg